Saturday, June 26, 2021

Hand block print chanderi Silk

 Chanderi sari is a traditional sari made in Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, India.


Chanderi, which is amongst the best known handloom clusters, occupies a special place because of its centuries old weaving specialty of producing finely textured fabrics of silk and cotton embellished with zari woven work, and more specifically because of its saris that have been patronized by royalty. Chanderi is known to have its origin back in the Vedic Period, and is believed to have founded by Lord Krishna’s cousin, Shishupal. The Chanderi produces three kinds of fabrics: Pure Silk, Chanderi Cotton and Silk Cotton. The motifs have come a long way from the traditional coin, floral and peacocks to the geometrics. Chanderi Saree, a product intricately woven by hand interspersed with the delicacy of the extra weft motifs that has for times immemorial satisfied the refined tastes of the royalty.

The traditional Indian fabric of Chanderi is known for its sheer texture, its light weight and luxurious drape. There are mainly three types of fabrics produced by the Chanderi: pure silk, silk cotton and chanderi cotton. There has been a significant transformation in the motif designs of Chanderi over the years,Chanderi with hand block printing is most trending now a days,so little information about famous Hand block printing here too.
Block printing is making use of a carved piece of wood or any other type of wooden block to imprint an image on fabric or paper. In the early days of printing, it was used to print entire books. Today the process of block printing is popularly associated with making designs on fabrics by printing on them, with the help of a block made for that purpose. Believed to have its origin in China, block printing has been in use around the world now, for quite some time.
Block printing or hand block printing is popular on account of a number of contributing factors.

- It has simplicity and ease of execution.

- There is the sharpness, accuracy and fine detailing of prints made on the fabrics.

- The huge possibilities of match and mix of different block designs in various colors on the same fabric as in large canvas fabrics like the saree and salwar kameez is stupendous. A large number of wooden blocks are always kept in readiness for use based on the intended patterns and designs.

Thursday, June 24, 2021

Chikankari forever

 In the words of Amita Walia, “The magic of Chikankari or the white-on-white embroidery of Lucknow reflects the splendor of Indian craft as pure moonlight resplendent in all its beauty.”


The 1986 Indian film Anjuman directed by Muzaffar Ali and starring Shabana Azmi and Farooque Shaikh is set in Lucknow and deals with issues of chikan workers.In fact, Farooque Shaikh was so charmed by this fabric and style that he wore chikan all his life and came to be identified as a brand ambassador of sorts of Lakhnavi chikankari.

Lucknow- the state capital of Uttar Pradesh is world renowned for its traditional Chikankari Embroidery. Chikankari is the embroidery work done with the white cotton thread on fine white cotton material. Chikankari is also called as shadow work. The word 'Chikan' is basically derived from Persian word 'Chikeen'

It's labour intensive and therefore expensive. Many shops these days have started fixing ready-made nets in the fabric in place of a handmade Jaali. It brings down the price and might appeal to some buyers but it's not authentic Chikan.

Pure khaddi Georgette Banarsi Silk Sarees

 Banarsi khaddi georgette sarees (Banarsi/banarsee khaddi chiffon sarees) are the very light weight hand woven banarsee zari border and boota saree. ... Khaddi baanrasee sarees are also known as banarasee georgette sarees, these are made in very light fabric with silver zari border and bootas.


khaddi georgette silk?

The sarees are made of finely woven silk and are decorated with intricate design, and, because of these engravings, are relatively heavy.
This is an intricately designed plain Pure Georgette silk handwoven Fabric. ... This fabric is apt for making any kind of kurtas, Lehangas, jackets, blouses or other outfits.

Banarasi georgette sarees are firstly woven in organic colours and then dipped in the eloquent hues of colorant. ... Pure banarasi georgette is designed with the curly surface, vibrant hues, gorgeous enrichment and they are easy to dyeL
A Banarasi sari is a sari made in Varanasi, an ancient city which is also called Benares (Banaras). The saris are among the finest saris in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery.

Thursday, June 17, 2021

HANDLOOM OF INDIA.

 The category handwoven textiles encompasses a broad spectrum of woven fabrics formed by interlacing two sets of elements-warp and weft-with the aid of a loom, which is a device for maintaining tension on the warp elements. ...


Woven Fabrics
Woven fabrics are generally more durable. They can be easily cut into different shapes and are excellent for producing styles in garments. ... Fabrics having more fabric count (number of wrap and weft yearns present) keep the shape well. Low count fabrics are less durable and may snag or stretch.

Woven Fabric Costing and Structure Factors

In garments, you may find different types of fabric are used and the fabric depends on what type of garments you want to produce. Based on the requirement different forms of the manufacturing process are followed in the factory. A merchandiser has to consider lots of things to calculate costing because based on this costing he/she will make contact with buyers. So if you are a merchandiser or wanted to be a merchandiser then you have to have knowledge of woven fabric costing and structure factors.

From my own experience, I am going to share about fabric costing and structure factors for your better understanding.

Factors of Woven Fabric Costing and Structure

• Fiber content
• Spinning type
• Yarn count
• Twist per inch(TPI) of yarn
• Number of picks per inch
• Number of ends per inch
• GSM
• Fabric width
• Dyeing/Printing type
• Finishing type
• Fabric Weave type
• Shade Quality
• Fabric Quality
• Shrinkage percentage

A woven fabric is made by weaving two pieces of thread or yarn where one fiber goes horizontally across the width of the fabric and the other goes vertically across the length of the fabric in a crisscross pattern. The yarn running across the width of the fabric is known as the weft yarn while the yarn going vertically across the length of the fabric is known as the warp yarn. Woven fabrics are ideal for sewing since they do not stretch and are crispier than knits. However, these fabrics tend to unravel easily hence they always require finishing with a serger or a zigzag stitch. They also have a tendency to wrinkle.